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Best atc guide mode Jul 4, 2024 · Guide mode belay devices are specially designed to belay with double ropes from above, offering extra safety and assisted braking. Here are the best belay devices: Petzl GriGri 2; Black Diamond ATC-Guide; Edelrid Mega Jul; Petzl GriGri + Petzl Reverso Jul 11, 2024 · Best Budget/Entry-Level Belay Device Black Diamond ATC-XP ($25) Style: Tube What we like: Cheap, simple, durable, and easy to use. With an oval-ized anchor-hole, the device now feeds rope and allows you to pull rope more easily. Feb 24, 2023 · Black Diamond Alpine Guide: https://bit. On the DMM Pivot, this clip-in point can swivel (or pivot), which is very helpful in Dec 15, 2021 · Belaying From Above With an ATC – Using an ATC in Guide Mode. This configuration is referred to as using the “Guide Mode” of the ATC. This is secured directly onto an anchor point for doing a direct belay. ly/3. Summary. The Black Diamond ATC Guide is one of many tube-style belay devices designed with a special guide mode attachment point. I agree the ATC is best for first timers. Sep 21, 2023 · For guide mode to work, the device must have a separate metal loop that can clip directly to the anchor. For instance, if there is a tonne of rope-drag, guide mode really sucks unless you actually want to exhaust your arms. Guide mode is easier to set up with a larger carabiner, which partly defeats the weight saving. Pretty much the best ATC style belay device there is. This setup, which is also called “guide mode,” automatically stops the rope from moving through the device—or “catches” the follower—if he falls. Oct 12, 2022 · The Mega Jul works well for lead belaying and top rope belaying. ly/3SuXqSGPetzl Reverso: https://bit. When using guide mode belay devices, it is essential to follow proper techniques and best practices to ensure safe and Apr 21, 2015 · I love my Reverso 3 and use it in guide mode quite a lot. Jul 11, 2024 · Best Budget/Entry-Level Belay Device Black Diamond ATC-XP ($25) Style: Tube What we like: Cheap, simple, durable, and easy to use. They can be used as a normal belay device too. Belaying in guide mode is OK, but the device and rope need to be clipped like a Gigi, so it's a bit tricky to set up. Simply pull the brake strands through as the climber moves up. com/jbmountainA video showing how to set up and use a belay device in guide mode, im Jul 16, 2014 · Belaying your follower (or followers) with an auto-blocking device set up directly on the anchor allows the leader to go almost hands-free while safely bringing the follower up to his stance. One point I would make in response to “The base ATC is the most straightforward (you can’t load it backwards like the Guide since there are no ridges for the brake side)”… you can intentionally load the Guide so that the brake strand(s) do not go over the grooves… Apr 27, 2021 · Guide mode is a large part of why climbers buy these devices, so although the Reverso scored well, we can’t recommend it over the ATC-Guide (unless those last 29g are really going to make the difference for your day). However, if you want the versatility of belaying one or two followers, stick with a tube device with guide mode. com The ATC Guide has an additional attachment point. Lowering is easier also the orientation of the belay loop for guide mode is 90° compared to the BD ATC wich orientates the rope either up or down on a anchor. Apr 22, 2020 · Want to buy me a coffee or the boy a dog treat? https://www. ly/40YplOJBlack Diamond Guide: https://bit. What we don’t: To belay from above in a multi-pitch scenario, you’ll want to step up to a device like the ATC Guide or Reverso. It is important, however, to remember that it also works as a normal device and, depending on the layout of your stance, it might be harder to use in guide mode. Some ATC-style belay devices have a 'guide mode' function - they can be set up in a way which locks automatically if a climber falls. A regular (non-guide) ATC will not Aug 26, 2021 · Black Diamond gear review. One point I would make in response to “The base ATC is the most straightforward (you can’t load it backwards like the Guide since there are no ridges for the brake side)”… you can intentionally load the Guide so that the brake strand(s) do not go over the grooves… Dmm pivot. ly/3XykBw8DMM Pivot: https://bit. With similar designs, the Nordwand and the ATC Guide are nearly an equal match. This is the thumb-sized ring on the side of the ATC guide, used for attaching directly to an anchor and belaying from above. All good points. You can set up guide mode as shown, with one rope or two. The Black Diamond ATC-Guide is a popular choice, featuring an auto-locking guide mode function. Black Diamond’s ATC-XP adheres to the age-old adage: If it ain't broke, don't fix it. 95 price tag for a belay device is pretty tough to beat. See full list on outdoorgearlab. The best value for money is probably the Petzl Reverso 4, as while it is slightly more expensive than the Black Diamond ATC Guide, it is lighter and can also handle a greater range of rope Dec 16, 2022 · The best belay device for multi-pitch climbing is an auto-blocking belay device when the device is set up in guide mode, such as the Black Diamond ATC Guide or the Petzl Grigri. 3mm. The Mammut Nordwand Alpine Belay Device and the Black Diamond ATC Guide manage to match this price, while delivering all of the necessary components a belayer needs. buymeacoffee. May 28, 2024 · A $34. Our most versatile belay/rappel device, the Black Diamond ATC-Guide is now 10% lighter and features improved handling in guide mode. In this configuration, the ATC is also able to apply a self-braking force on the rope. It also takes rope diameters down to 7. You can find helpful videos about this on YouTube. Aug 26, 2021 · Black Diamond gear review. Multiple friction modes provide the optimal amount of stopping power when lowering or rap Jan 28, 2019 · It is also the quickest device when it comes to lowering a climber in guide mode as it is much easier to release the tension when the rope is locked. iccbgd yggxd wcgfug uadbp cptb jmjip yywm agszc jyd zyilro |
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